Delivers toasted sesame seed, date, sandalwood, musk and baked mirabelle plum notes, which come together to create a lush, detailed offering. The finish is laced with a hazelnut husk streak, which provides a lengthy spine. Drink now. 100 cases made, 17 cases imported.

- James Molesworth

Best In Show

All of Madeira’s ‘noble’ varieties are now rare on the island, but none more so than Terrantez: it has ‘virtually disappeared’ according to Robinson, Harding and Vouillamoz’s Wine Grapes, with just 2 ha said to remain. Meanwhile, stocks of Madeira’s greatest vintage wines, even from the second half of the C20, are now a rarity in their own right – all of which means that the chance even to taste this wine, let alone pass judgement on it, is a fast-vanishing privilege. What might you expect if you can arrange a small glassful with friends? It’s a pale walnut in colour, with aromas which evoke the rarified scents of the multi-levelled ageing lodges as much as anything fruity. Like all fine Madeiras, though, the wine is fresh, clean, almost bracing, and mysteriously marine, as if the wide Atlantic -- and the tar and saltpetre of its now-lost sailing ships -- was somehow brimming in the glass, too. In the mouth it’s medium sweet, burnished, tangy and very long, with its inner tension and almost shocking concentration the result of acidity, sweetness and the oxidative complexities brought by long ageing. As the wine leaves the mouth, it’s not sweetness that you’ll remember and cherish but acidity itself: flavoury, long, almost fiery, unquenchable and challenging.