Offers a broad and exotic feel, with argan oil, walnut and hazelnut husk, and dried peach and date flavors all in the mix. There's also incense, green tea and toasted sesame accents through the long finish, which ripples with subtly nervy tension. —J.M.

Garnet color with a yellow edge. This very sweet and very old tawny Port shows fabulous density and richness, not to mention intense sweetness and depth. A little tannic yet remains polished and caressing. Long and flavorful finish of dried fruits, citrus, caramel and butterscotch as well as salted nuts. Some Portuguese flan. Drink now.

While this continues to some extent the "dry, stern and powerful" feel of its siblings, this also has the most richness, the sweetest edge and the most ability to cut that stern aspect. The finish is long and delicious, laced with caramel and milk chocolate. This 40 is about richness and concentration.

Produced from the two vineyards that also supply Dow's Vintage Ports, this is a surprisingly light, fresh wine considering its age. It is bright-eyed with acidity and perfumed toffee and raisin flavors, a wine that can be drunk now.