The 1987 Terrantez was produced with grapes from the prestigious Câmara de Lobos and matured in pipas (650-liter) for years until it was recently bottled. It hit the scale at 20% alcohol and has a pH of 3.31 and 95 grams of unfermented sugar. This is a special wine, with the acidity of Sercial, the sweetness of a Boal and with the palate showing great balance; the attack is sweet but it finishes fairly dry. It has roundness and finesse. - L.G.

#50, Top 100 Wines of Portugal

This shows varnish, dried fruit and roasted oranges with smoke and subtle honey notes. Juicy with compelling austerity. Like most Madeira wines, the finish is driven by a combination of sharp cutting acidity, integrated sweetness (95 g/L of residual sugar) and seductive oxidation. This was aged in a canteiro system, in 650-liter American oak barrels, up to bottling in 2023. Drink now or hold forever. - J.L

This offers an up-front feel, with a mix of dried fig, papaya and blood orange notes laced with walnut and hazelnut husk accents. A long, prominent Brazil nut echo on the racy finish adds a distinctive edge and admirable length. - J.M.

Editor's Choice

Made from the rarest of varieties, found in only a few parcels in Madeira because it is so low yielding, this is a medium-sweet wine. It is an impressive survivor, a wood-aged wine that is so dense and concentrated. Beautifully rounded, cut with spirit, the wine is ready to drink. - R.V.